Waxing Your Furniture

Tonight’s post is dedicated to waxing…. not your brows or other spots you care to wax… But your furniture!! 🙂   Lots of reading and lots of pictures.

I always had used wipe on poly on all my pieces pre-chalk paint days.  Then I discovered the amazing beauty that wax brought out in the paint and in your details and was hooked!! I love the sheen you get when you buff and I honestly just love the smell!! I’m the weird one I guess… and that’s just okay with me.

As I stated in last nights post. I don’t wax before I distress. I don’t believe it is necessary and certainly don’t need to take any extra steps or product in doing my work!! I’ll start with the different types of waxes out there and why I use what I choose to use. These are all just my opinions and I’ve formed them from trial and error and it’s just that- my opinion!! And we all know I like to share it!!

clear wax and dark over
Annie’s wax {ASCP} it’s all I had ever used until I ran out and the place I get was closed… oh no what’s a girl to do? I will run down the list of what I tried and what I thought…
clear wax distressing and dark wax to highlight details
First Briwax- I had read on a couple of blogs that they loved it and they used it all the time… I don’t remember the blogs sorry.  But you can BING it{hubby works for Microsoft the other word might as well be a curse word} and lots of blogs come up that have tried it.  It was one of those moments when it was all closed up in my garage and late at night.  I had painted out a sample board to see what would happen because I was using a light colored paint… Old White I think.  The smell was outrageously strong!! I mean open all the doors and run for fresh air strong.  And remember above, I like smelly wax but this was too much!! It did yellow the light color so I had to wait.  But I did later use it again on old doors that were layered in color and it is a nice wax.  I just wouldn’t grab it as my first wax.  I am however, wanting to try out their Lime Wax… let me know if you already have and what you think of it…


Painted top, distressed and stained and dark waxed.

So, I next will tell you I love ASCP wax- it’s harder to use than my current wax {Le Cire Antiquing Wax} and the dark is a little intimidating but it works well and gives a great sheen when buffed.  It does take a long time to cure, can be horribly fussy if you try to work it when it isn’t ready.  You cannot apply the dark directly to any color light or dark without get a “bite” on the paint.  It gives a dirty look if not applied over the clear first… but it was all I knew and I loved it.
In trying new waxes I stumbled upon Miss Mustard Seed’s post on Fiddes and Son’s retailing at John Millen Hardware I ordered it and used it all the time.  It works so much easier than the other and it provides a brilliant sheen and buffs out amazingly.  Takes much less time to dry and I felt the durability was totally there!!  {All of these waxes are a soft wax.}

I have tried the paste wax and a couple of others I don’t remember the name but they weren’t like the Fiddes or the other, so I just used those. 

There are so many fun things you can do with soft wax.  I was a glazing girl back in the day and I totally started playing with the clear wax… Adding glazing mediums and antiquing paints creating new colors with the wax and it went on just like glaze but still gave the durability of the wax… That was a whole new world.  Here is one of the pieces I used this technique on trying to duplicate a picture she had sent to me of a piece she found in store.  It turned out soo pretty and she was thrilled… and I was thrilled because I got to play!!

glazing colored wax
I also love that the chalk based paints are so porous they take stain sooo well.  I have used this a couple of times on table tops.  Where they want a painted look with the stain making it look even older.  It’s truly a beautiful way to get a super smooth table top full of durability!! Adding a dark walnut stain and dark wax to create a beautiful aged look. 
{ I will add that I always send those tables home now with 2 coats of wipe on poly over the Le Cire wax… I just don’t want to chance it with something that is being used daily… cleaned daily and being wiped daily. *** Edit Update*** I get a lot of questions regarding wax and poly.  I only use the poly over Le Cire Wax.  The Le Cire wax is penetrating.  So it literally penetrates into the paint and surface of the piece allowing the wax to completely adhere itself, rather than sit on top.  Wipe on Poly is an oil based product- I do not use water based poly’s.  You CANNOT use a poly over the ASCP wax.  If I am using ASCP wax that is all I put on it. And if I need extra protection with the piece I make sure to give it 3 coats.  I have a dresser that has been used as a changing table for over a year and it has been through a lot.  Wet swimsuits and such and it is perfect to this day still.  Wax is very very durable!!}
 Heavily distressed with wet distressing and dark wax over stain and painted top.
 I absolutely LOVE this Old Dutch recipe {Le Cire Antiquing Wax} we are carrying with our Maison Blanche “La Craie” Paint.  It has been used for hundreds of years and it is the smoothest applying wax I have ever used.  It doesn’t have a horrible smell.  It’s not all natural but that to me is good because I am not giving up durability when going with something water based.    It comes in clear, amber, light brown, and dark brown.  It can be applied directly to any color and not give that “bite” look. 
Antique Wax in my favorite colors… The brush I use Waxine, and the buffing pad I love & use most {all} the time!!
From left to right… This is Vanille with dark wax directly applied, light brown wax, & clear
Debutante with light brown wax applied directly to color sample.
My preferred method of application is to use the pad…. it buffs as you are applying and you are not digging out the unwanted stray bristles that fall out!! {grr}  The antique wax { Le Cire Antiquing Wax} dries within 15-20 minutes and you can apply your next coat and wait to buff.  I love that you can get the job done with amazing protection in 2 coats and not have to wait over night for it to cure to buff.  There’s no drag and no white cloudy marks… it’s dry and ready to go!!  I also haven’t found it to work differently in different climate settings.  It will melt down in extreme heat so keep at room temperature.  The only complaint I do have is the sheen is matte/satin.  No shimmer except with the darker waxes.  They buff a little higher sheen.
The darker waxes are easy to move around and work just like a glaze.  You can get really good after lots of practice of not having to much on your brush {cheapy chip brushes work great in detail areas} and not needing a rag to wipe off extra.  It’s that smooth of an application.

I hope that some of this helps.  There are lots of good video tutorials out there but sometimes reading what others have tried also helps.  If you didn’t see a particular wax listed it is because I either haven’t tried it or don’t like it.  I only wish to give you those I know and trust!!

Happy Waxing!!


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  1. Thanks so much for the tips! I love your finishes (especially on that first piece)…..be still my heart!


  2. Amy Hardy says:

    What is that buffing pad you’re using? I think I would love that!

  3. Thanks for the wax tips. I’ll definitely have to dry the Fiddes and Son’s next time, especially now that it has two thumbs up (from you and MMS). Never heard of the Dutch Recipe. Good to know.

    • Lori Young says:

      The antique wax or dutch recipe one is called “Cire d’Antiques” It is sold with our new line of the Maison Blanche Paint. Let me know if you’d like to try it and i’ll ship it out to you!! 🙂

  4. Deborah Greene says:

    I am interested in the amber wax but would like to see it on something. I have light and dark waxes but looking for something different. Thanks, Deborah G

    • Lori says:

      Deborah, I am not sure that I actually have anything painted with it at this time to show you. The best way for me to explain it sounds a bit silly but is the best I can do!! It works just like a toner- in haircolor. Takes a deep or brighter color and tones it down just a hint. It would yellow a white but not much difference on the lighter colors than the clear. Maybe just warm those up a notch. I hope that helps!! ~ Lori

  5. Tricia says:

    Thanks for the info! Luckily, we have a Harbor Freight in our town. LOVE that store! I’ll be sure to pick up some of the waxing pads the next time I’m there.

  6. Vicki Barber says:

    Just wondered what you should clean your furniture tops with after Maison Blanche waxes? Furniture polish or just a clean damp rag? Thank you

    • Lori says:

      Hi Vicki,

      You will want to take care of your finishes as though they were any heirloom piece. No harsh chemicals. Often a dry cloth is enough. But a damp rag at first and then if needed Simple Green products are fine. Heavy use requiring a lot of cleaning, will remove the wax over time so you will want to rewax as needed. Hope this helps!! Thank you. ~ Lori

  7. Donna Ree says:

    You’ve had success applying wipe-on polyurethane AFTER waxing? I thought that was a recipe for disaster! I tried it once, and after allowing the poly to dry, rubbed it to make sure it all worked…and it balled up. I love ASCP wax but also fear it’s not strong enough for a kitchen tabletop and had hoped to be able to put poly on top for protection. You’ve made it work?

    • Lori says:

      Donna, I sent you an email to answer your questions!! I only use Wipe on Poly over the Le Cire wax because it is penetrating!! You are right the poly over ASCP will fail!!

  8. Love your post, this really helps, I had been looking for what would protect painted projects for outside. The waxes really have helped Di@Cottage-wishes

  9. Shirley says:

    I was interested in the wax people use after redoing a piece. The thing in this post that made me laugh was your “Bing It” comment. I am reminded of the sign that says: “Bing It” ~ said No One Ever!

  10. Cindy says:

    I know this is an old post but I’m curious if you use the Fiddes and sons wax on ascp?

    • Lori says:

      I have used Fiddes on ASCP. It works great on all chalk/milk based and make it yourself type paints. Enjoy!!

  11. Joanna Banana says:

    Thanks so much for such an informative entry! I’m just getting into this and all the possibilities are very confusing as to what to try first!

  12. Caitlin says:

    Okay, I don’t know anything about painting furniture, I’m just getting into it and have only done a few (extremely simple pieces) but I decided to paint our kitchen table, which I did after some research, I tried to follow directions and at the end of it all put 3 coats of polyurethane, as that is what I read was super durable. I HATE my tabletop now. I have 3 small kids. I’ve had tiny pieces of food particles that are just stuck, so, like any normal table in the past, I’ve use a knife to get it off. The topcoat scratches so easily, or lightens up so easily, it never looks just plain good. So, now that I’ve read this article I’m wondering if waxing and then poly is the way to go! Do you have any advice?? Sorry, for the novel of a comment!

  13. Naomi says:

    Holy Smokes!! Do you have a recipe for the glazing colored wax? I have similarly shaped side tables and love the finish for them! Gorgeous!

  14. Cheryl says:

    Hi! I just love the above chest that copied from a customer’s picture. Would you please tell me the colors you used. It is absolutely beautiful. Thank you


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